![]() I suspect you'll find these sufficient to be getting on with. Heavy's good for what you're wanting to do there, though. One reason I got what I did was cause (for the money I paid, especially) that also made em more fixable-by-me. (Check for loose screws when you get it, though. No big worries, though, you're under budget enough that you can just put a more-suitable head on there if the pistolley one doesn't work for everything. I'm skeptical of those pistol-grip ballheads cause they make big levers like when you go vertical, but they might be good for quicker horizontal work. When I get it, I'll put it through it's paces & let you know my impressions.Ĭool, at least as far as the legs go: actually, finishes and a couple details aside, those look just like the big Amvona legs I've got. My old Heiwa tripod has some heft to it too, so that's not a big deal for me. It might be a little heavy at 10 lbs., but to me, stability and durability are more important than weight. Here it is:Ī: Ravelli APGL4 New Professional Tripod with Adjustable Pistol Grip Head and Heavy Duty Carry Bag: Camera & Photo It looks like an awful lot of bang for the buck. ![]() I went with the Ravelli APGL4 from Amazon for $80. One option for the long lenses and astro might be the surveyor's tripod (They apparently run about fifty bucks) and the rest on a good-sized budget head of some kind.Īctually, I just bought one. )ĭefinitely a nice tripod for flexibility, there's even a fitting on a leg or two that you can attach a head to and use for whatever purpose: (like extending that leg out straight and putting it on a table to make a fair copy setup. The patented design creates a solid slip free connection between the post and camera. The metal post includes the industry standard 1/4 20 thread for mounting to film and digital cameras. I'm not sure if they're hard to find these days. The Slik quick release post 6121 (618-752) is the replacement 1/4 20 thread QR post for the U212, U212 DX and other legacy tripods. I continued to use the U212 for some time even knowing the repaired legs (two clamps had the wire repair) would slip when I pressed down on it with more force than the camera weight applied. Did this fix work out pretty well Hope someone sees this. Did always think those were clever, if not inherently anti-twistey for long lenses, (though better than you'd think) (I've actually still got a couple: when I lost my camera support cache I had a couple in my bag. I currently have this problem with my old SLIK tripod. Hrm, I wonder if that pistol grip head takes the same quick-release posts. I can heartily recommend this tripod, but I can't compare it to others at or near the price point. (I do add a heavy weight to the extended rear leg to ensure it doesn't tip over). I have even shortened up two legs to make it lean to the side for use as a copy stand. It can make very unusual leg configurations to accomodate almost any situation. It was marketed as a U212AF with their pistol grip ball head instead of a typical pan/tilt head.( Slik AF-2100 Pistol Grip Head (Quick Release) 618-210 B&H Photo ). It's not clear how the leg "brace" is attaced at the leg end but I believe that's the adjustment fixture point.I have a Slik U212 that I bought ages ago. And the leg stud allows even closer use of the head of could allow use of the head on the leg with the leg sections collapsed, which might allow it to be closer to the ground than flattening the leg angles. The slotted end allowed limited movement out to a typical leg angle, when the leg was loosened further, it could be extended to flatter angles allowing use quite close to the ground. ![]() On the U-1xx series there was a "wingnut" IIRC that allowed adjustment of the angle brace between the leg and the central spider assembly. It would be heavier than the 330DX, but more versatile. Apparently Slik has been making that model for a few decades, and it seems to be highly regarded. If replacing with a head requiring the 3/8" screw mount, there are bushings available which will easily adapt the larger head thread to the 1/4" stud. I've decided to look for an old Slik U212. It's designed to allow movement of the head to the stud that can be found on the base of the center post or also on one (maybe all?) of the legs. You should be able to unscrew the head, turning it counter clockwise (looking down from above) but it may require some force to do so if you've never had it off. I believe it's the part marked as 0571 on the pdfs. The head is on a "standard" 1/4" stud, the same as used to connect cameras to tripods (as opposed to the 3/8" stud found on most "European" or "professional" tripods.
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